此文章来自2023奥马设计期刊2.0第15篇。

To most Italians, and pasta-loving foreigners, any changes in the way this monument of Italy’s cuisine is served often amounts to outright sacrilege, given a few concessions to fancy toppings and decorations. Nestled in a shallow plate in a more or less geometric, or dishevelled fashion, cheese shavings on top, if applicable, and further seasonings: that’s more or less the standard conception of pasta plating, a paradigm that went unchallenged for well over a century.
对于大多数意大利人和喜欢意大利面的外国人而言，对这一意大利美食典范的任何改变，哪怕只是对精致浇汁和装饰的一点点调整，都是对它的公然亵渎。摆放在浅盘中的面条呈现出某种几何形状，或者根本没有形状，有时上面会撒有奶酪屑和作料：这几乎成了意大利面的摆盘标准，一个多世纪以来都未曾受到过挑战。

To chefs like Silvio Battistoni, owner of the “Colonne” gourmet restaurant in Sacro Monte, just outside Varese on the Swiss-Italian border, plating is as important an element as the recipe itself in the design of a haute-cuisine dish. The sketches by local artist Yama refer to his pear and red-prawn ravioli in pomegranate, tomato and herbs infusion served in bone China, and his lacquered celery, walnuts and tuna roe spaghetti presented on a stylish black slab of local slate.
Silvio Battistoni的Colonne餐厅位于圣蒙特（Sacro Monte），离瑞士和意大利交界处的瓦雷泽不远。对于像他这样的厨师而言，在设计一道高级料理时，摆盘与食谱本身同样重要。上面配图为当地艺术家Yama的速写，第2张图呈现了Battistoni的石榴、番茄和香草浸渍梨肉配红虾馄饨，盛放在骨瓷器皿中；第1张图呈现了Battistoni的芹菜、核桃配金枪鱼籽意大利面，盛放在他用本地石板制成的雅致黑色平盘中。 But Italian cuisine has evolved, especially haute-cuisine, and so have recipes for pasta, which are ever more innovative, and open to the influences of other cultures. While that has been generally accepted by Italians, in fact they’re quite proud of this gourmet evolution while not renouncing tradition, plating has remained quite boringly the same. Fine dining establishments found this situation a bit tight, and started experimenting with new ways of presenting Italy’s national staple. This often equates with smaller quantities of pasta going into each single portion, which in turn means a better carb balance when inserting pasta dishes in modern multiple-course gourmet menus, as opposed to the traditional three courses pattern. Freeing plating from the pasta clutter also allowed to better honour the glorious supporting-ingredients.
然而，意大利菜已有所演变，尤其是高级料理。意大利面食谱同样也在变化，越来越具有创意和文化包容性。尽管意大利人普遍接受了这种美食的变迁，甚至颇为自豪，但他们在摆盘上仍固守传统，保持着一成不变的单调风格。高级餐厅发现了其中的矛盾点，于是开始尝试用新的方式呈现意大利面。常见的做法是减少单份意大利面的量，并将其穿插在如今多道菜的菜单中。相比传统的三道菜模式，这可以更好地平衡碳水摄入。如此一来，不仅无需再为意大利面的摆盘而困扰，还能凸显除面条外其他食材的风味。

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