设计期刊:Back to the Roots in Bolivia, Where Earth Meets the Sky 在天地交汇处,回归玻利维亚的本源

此文章来自2023奥马设计期刊第18篇。

Design Magazine talks to Marsia Taha, the pioneering head chef of Gustu in La Paz, an astonishing fine dining restaurant serving ancestral native foods in avant-garde contemporary style. Latin America’s rising culinary star has put Bolivia on the world gastronomic map, and traditional local ingredients back on Bolivians’ tables, while supporting local communities and productions.

Gustu餐厅位于拉巴斯,这家高级餐厅匠心独运,采用现代前卫的方式烹调传统本地食材。本杂志采访了该餐厅极具开拓精神的主厨Marsia Taha。这位拉丁美洲的烹饪新星将玻利维亚推上世界美食地图,并将传统本地食材带回玻利维亚人的餐桌,同时为当地社区及生产做出贡献。

Standing at nearly 4.000 mt above sea level, La Paz is the highest capital of the world, but also home to one of the pinnacles of Bolivian, and indeed the world’s contemporary cuisine: Gustu, a fine dining establishment utilising the most astonishing and long lost produce from the nearby Andes and the Amazon rainforest. Founded by Danish entrepreneur Claus Meyer, co-owner of Legendary Noma in Copenhagen, Gustu owes its embracing the local tradition to its young female head chef, Marsia Taha.

拉巴斯海拔近4000米,是世界上海拔最高的首都,高级餐厅Gustu就坐落在这里。附近的安第斯山脉和亚马逊雨林中生长着几乎已被人遗忘的特殊食材,Gustu利用这些食材,烹调出融合了玻利维亚传统与当代风格的高质量美食。Gustu由丹麦企业家、哥本哈根传奇餐厅Noma的合伙人Claus Meyer创立。餐厅的年轻女主厨Marsia Taha为Gustu奠定了以当地传统美食为特色的发展基调。

How did your culinary passion for traditional Bolivian produce come about?

您对玻利维亚传统食材的烹饪热情是如何产生的?

When I started at Gustu, it was my first experience in such an establishment. The head chef was Danish, and I felt the need to spend some time working in Denmark to better understand the workings of a fine dining restaurant. I was amazed by how the Danes were able to make the absolute best out of the few resources they had, and I started dreaming about what we could achieve here by applying this Nordic approach to the incredible diversity of Bolivia’s traditional produce.

加入Gustu时,我完全没有在大型餐厅的工作经验。当时的主厨是丹麦人,因此我觉得有必要前往丹麦工作一段时间,以便更好地了解高级餐厅的运作方式。丹麦人擅长将有限的食材发挥到极致,这极大地启发了我。玻利维亚的传统农产品数不胜数,于是我立志要将北欧的烹饪理念带回玻利维亚。

“From a culinary standpoint, Latin America is a sleeping giant who has only just woken up. We have so much to give to world gastronomy”

“从烹饪角度来看,拉丁美洲是一个刚觉醒的沉睡巨人,这里有无数宝藏美食可以呈现给世界。”

When I returned as a head chef, I started researching local ingredients, and my cuisine gained a decidedly more Bolivian perspective and inspiration. Today at Gustu, we use native products, in many cases of prehispanic origins, like alligator, certain varieties of potatoes and algae caviar, that we source from local communities which we help become economically self-sufficient. In the beginning it was a bit tough, it took some time to sink in with our clientele. Patrons were mostly foreigners, then Bolivians started to discover their own heritage and native foods and appreciate what we do at Gustu. They are taking pride in their culinary roots. I believe it had an impact on Bolivian society, raising awareness about the richness and the cultural value of traditional products, now widely available in markets across the country.

以主厨的身份回到玻利维亚后,我开始研究本地食材,为菜肴注入正宗地道的玻利维亚风味。如今,Gustu从当地社区采购本地产品,帮助人们实现经济自足。这些产品大多是土生土长,如鳄鱼、特定品种的土豆和海葡萄。起初这并不容易,顾客一时间无法完全适应菜肴的变化。当时,顾客大多是外国人。后来,玻利维亚顾客尝到了久违的本地食材,开始认可Gustu,并为自己的烹饪传统感到自豪。Gustu无疑对玻利维亚社会产生了积极影响,使人们越发意识到传统产品的丰富性和文化价值。如今,这些产品在全国各地的市场上随处可见。

Crudo de Yakaré, Urucù & Sacha Inchi
生凯门鳄、星油藤配胭脂树种子

What sparked your interest in social projects?

是什么激发了您对社会项目的兴趣?

I guess our attention to social issues and our urge to teach are just part of our DNA at Gustu. I became involved in supporting the local communities working with disadvantaged kids in La Paz through the Manq’a culinary school. We started at the restaurant, and soon the school grew out of it. Today we have several sites in Bolivia and also in Colombia. The organisation is completely self sufficient and produces its own food, all native.

对社会问题的关注和对教学的热情是Gustu文化的一部分。为了参与并支持拉巴斯当地社区的弱势儿童工作,Manq'a烹饪学校应运而生。起初,餐厅就是我们的教室,但随后不久,我们建立了专门的烹饪学校。现在,Manq'a在玻利维亚和哥伦比亚设有多个分校。学校使用的当地农产品都是自己种植的,完全自给自足。


Sonso de Yuca & Huerta
木薯饼配蔬菜叶

You also developed your own scientific-gastronomic project...

您还自主开发了科学地理项目……

In 2017, despite our efforts, it seemed that we weren’t making much progress in sourcing new products, yet in my opinion we hadn’t even discovered half the traditional ingredients that were still out there. We founded Sabores Silvestres, “flavours of the wild”, to better explore the trove of extraordinary and hidden produce still farmed and produced by remote communities. We also learn about ancient traditions and techniques. Sabores Silvestres is formed by a multidisciplinary team of cooks, botanists, ethnologists. We work in collaboration with the Wildlife Conservation Society that also helps these communities sustain themselves through these ancestral activities.

2017年的时候,我们不断搜寻新产品,但收效甚微。在我看来,当时我们已发现的食材甚至还不到传统食材种类的一半。为此,我们创立了Sabores Silvestres,意为“自然的味道”,以更好地探索偏远地区尚未被发现的的特殊农产品。我们还积极学习古老传统和技术。Sabores Silvestres由多领域的人才组成,包括厨师、植物学家和民族学家。我们还与野生动物保护协会携手合作,该协会也在帮助当地社区依靠祖传技艺营生。

Pato, Maiz & Murmunta
鸭胸、玉米配海葡萄

How do you reconcile haute cuisine’s creativity and innovation, with tradition?

在制作高档菜肴时,您如何平衡创新与传统?

We go a long way in researching and supporting native produce, traditions and techniques, but we believe that what really counts is to keep the flavours alive, and that’s precisely our intent here at Gustu. Also, we offer exclusivity in the way we treat and respect ingredients, but we’d like everybody to enjoy what we do. Fine dining is generally associated with high prices, but that’s a common misconception, it doesn’t need to be expensive, and we make a point of having reasonably priced menus, with a three-course tasting menu starting at €18.

我们长期研究并支持本地农产品、传统及技术。在我们看来,最重要的是传承风味,这也正是Gustu的宗旨。我们在处理食材、还原本味的同时,也关注个人偏好,致力于满足每位顾客的口味。人们往往认为高级餐厅必然定价高昂,但其实并非如此。我们的菜单价格合理,一份包含三道菜肴的品鉴套餐售价为18欧元起。
Helado de chirimoya, merengue & flores secas
释迦果冰激凌、蛋白霜配干花

When not cooking, Marsia loves to indulge typical Bolivian street food, one of her favourites being wallake, a native soup made with tiny qarachi fish from lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world, where earth, tradition and the living meet the sky.

闲暇时光,Marsia热衷于品尝各式玻利维亚传统街头小吃。“wallake”是她的最爱之一,这是一种用的的喀喀湖产的小卡拉奇鱼制成的传统汤羹。的的喀喀湖是世界上海拔最高的可通航湖泊,被称为大地、传统、生活三者与天空的交汇之处。
Alfajor de Helado de Roble
橡树冰淇淋夹心曲奇
Marsia Taha Mohamed, 33, is the head chef of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia, one of Latin America’s most acclaimed restaurants. Born in Sofia, Bulgaria to a Bolivian mother and a Palestinian father, she moved to Bolivia when she was five. After her culinary studies in Europe, in particular in Spain, she moved back to La Paz before spending some time in Denmark where she discovered the world of avant-garde fine dining at its highest level. She applied the Nordic approach to Bolivian ancestral produce to create Gustu’s unique proposition. It was a planetary success. She was featured in many documentaries and TV stories as well as in magazines all around the world. She won the 2021 Latin America Best Rising Star Female Chef award by Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Marsia Taha Mohamed,33岁,是位于玻利维亚的拉丁美洲著名餐厅Gustu的主厨。她出生于保加利亚首都索非亚,母亲是玻利维亚人,父亲是巴勒斯坦人,五岁时迁居玻利维亚。在西班牙等欧洲国家学习烹饪后,她搬回拉巴斯,随后前往丹麦工作,并在那里领略了前卫高级餐厅的极致水准。她将北欧的方法应用于玻利维亚的传统农产品,创造了Gustu的独特价值主张。Marsia的成功是全球性的,得到了世界各地纪录片、电视节目和杂志的争相报道。Marsia曾荣获拉丁美洲五十佳餐厅颁发的2021年拉丁美洲“最佳新星女厨师奖”。

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